Austria - From the Dachstein Glacier to Switzerland

We have been traveling through Europe for over a year. Our Balkan tour is coming to an end. We traveled from Italy to Croatia, crossed Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia, then visited Bulgaria and Romania, and arrived in Austria via Hungary.

Next week we will be at home for a few months because we are very happy to be becoming grandparents. Therefore, the next newsletter will not arrive until January 2026. We are also not yet quite sure where the journey will take us then.

Grossglockner High Alpine Road (10.8.25)

The drive is entertaining, and the toll station at the national park shows that there must be quite a few tourists here... We are surprised that a mountain pass costs 45 euros and are curious about what to expect. Already after a few altitude meters, I realize that the fuel consumption has quintupled and the remaining kilometers on the display are melting away. At Hochmais, at 1850 meters above sea level, I need a short moment to think. Tamara, meanwhile, needs a lot, very much patience ;-). I try to calculate how much the next 1000 altitude meters to the summit will cost in fuel consumption. Additionally, I check how far the next gas station is before and after the pass. I figure out that we should turn around when we have 100 km of remaining range, in case we haven't reached the peak yet. So I continue driving quite relaxed. During the first panoramic views, I almost forget about it. So I continue driving somewhat relaxed. At the first panoramic views, I almost forget to look at the display. From this viewpoint, we can see at least six different glaciers.

The road winds its way upward, and my mood is rising straight up. The fuel was sufficient! Now it’s just a few hundred meters up and then only down from there.

The view of the 3000-meter peaks is breathtaking. The vastness of the mountains in Austria is beautiful. In the Swiss Alps, the continental plates have folded in a tighter space and at a much higher elevation than here in Austria. That's why the view sometimes also shows high glaciers from the deep valleys.

The Grossglockner, with an elevation of 3,798 meters, is often shrouded in clouds. The Grossvenediger, at 3,674 meters, is also only visible from a distance.

Tamara and I are welcomed by the 'welcome committee' at Franz Josef Höhe. Of course, we are armed with fresh carrots, and the marmots know that, or in good Swiss German, 'Murmeli.' Some come out of their burrows when they hear the zipper of your backpack, while others only come out when the plastic bag crinkles. Here at Franz Josef Höhe, there is a 100% chance of seeing marmots. I call the cheeky marmot 'Franzl.' Emperor Franz Josef visited this glacier in 1856 with his wife Elisabeth (Sissi). Elisabeth managed to ascend 800 of the 1100 meters in altitude from Heiligenblut on horseback. That is why her resting place was called Elisabethruhe.

The view of the glaciers here at 2369 meters above sea level is fantastic. Tamara and I decide to take a walk a bit backward into the valley towards the glaciers.

The path goes through several tunnels along the Gamsgrubenweg. We walk to the end and it's teeming with marmots. However, the carrots are being kept for us as provisions, because we might be out here in this wonderful area for several more hours.

At the Waterfall Corner, we are already 2548 meters above sea level. Here are a few impressions from our evening tour.

We notice that fewer and fewer people are on the way and the sun is already low in the sky. I ask a somewhat worn-out hiking group how much longer it will be until we reach the 'top'. They say 1-2 hours and Tamara and I look at each other wide-eyed. Then it would already be dark and we have to leave the national park by 9 PM. Therefore, unfortunately, we have to turn back. We will do this tour on our next visit to Austria.

When we return, the viewpoint is empty and the parking lot is too. The Blattmanns are once again going against the trend...

It is already 8:30 PM and now we urgently need to leave the park and find a gas station. At 8:53 PM we leave the gate to the national park. After refueling, we arrive late in the evening at our resting place. We sleep at the foot of the Großglockner in Carinthia and recover from the hike of that day. Actually, we want to drive to Salzburg the next day and consider whether to go back to the north over the pass and pay 17 euros for it. Tamara and I don't like driving the same route twice and try to avoid tolls. This will prove to be difficult in the Hohe Tauern National Park.

Drive from Carinthia to Salzburg (11.8.25)

In the south of the Hohe Tauern National Park, there is no longer a convenient way to the north. Passes, parks, and car transport stations take you back to the north for a fee. Our navigation system first leads us eastward. We only realize late that it is a car transport station. However, the area is worth the entire journey back. Since we saw all the beautiful places on the way there, we stop at the lake to refresh ourselves and take a break.

Tamara also has the hiking app "Komoot". So in the evening we can still find a sleeping place at a hiking parking lot, even under difficult conditions. Of course, we have to get up earlier in the morning so that the early birds have space.We decide to visit the Krimml Waterfalls in Salzburgerland on our way to Salzburg. At 380 meters high, it is the tallest waterfall in Austria. Close by, we sleep at a hiking parking lot.

Krimml Waterfalls (12.8.25)

At the foot of the waterfalls, we park among the campers who have already spent the night there. After a short walk, we find ourselves in front of the check-in for the waterfall hike. It is unusual for us to pay an entrance fee for a hiking trail. However, every euro is worth it for the Krimml Waterfalls. The waterfall thunders down in several stages into the depths.

Upon reaching the top, we have a view of the meadow where we will continue our hike down into the valley. It is now lunchtime, and the sun makes the ascent no easier. The restaurants on the meadow are inviting, so we have our lunch there and for dessert, a Kaiserschmarrn.

The forests are full of moss because the water vapor showers the area. Accordingly, nature is particularly beautiful to look at.

On the way back, the evening sun shines and the rainbow colors shimmer in the water.

In the evening, we return to our hiking parking lot. The spot is located right next to the Salzach River with a view of the Grossvenediger. The same camper as the night before is still there. Apparently, the athletic couple that arrived in the morning and set off immediately has started a two-day tour on the fourth largest mountain in Austria. The 3666 meters and the glaciers to be crossed are recommended with a guide. Far back in the valley, you can still see the snow-covered peaks of the Grossvenediger.

The parking lot is perfect. The Salzach brings a cool breeze in the evening, lowering the temperatures in the camper to a pleasant 23 degrees. During the day, it is between 30-36 degrees outside in the shade.

Drive to Salzburg (13.8.25)

The next morning we drive up a mountain pass and enjoy one last look at the waterfalls. From above, they don't seem as high and steep as they are when hiking.

Tamara and I are surprised that this road costs nothing and just after the next curve there is a toll station. I confidently say cars under 3.5 tons. She smiles and my 'well... 3.5 tons'. Only now do I see that she is looking at a display and we are horrified to realize that we are on a scale. We know that the Austrians are a bit strict with campers and especially in Tyrol, there are some self-proclaimed policemen who maintain law and order. The fact that there is a scale installed at the toll stations on mountain passes is a new experience for us. '3520 kilograms,' says the woman, 'are within tolerance.' Up to 3700 is allowed without penalty. We exhale and the journey continues.

The road takes us through the Lech Valley along Alpine roads. The cows roam freely, and the view of the glacier world ends here on the way to Salzburg. Lech is a beautiful holiday village with many leisure activities. The decorated buildings of the Tyrolean houses are also wonderful to admire.

After following the Lech for hours, we now come to the Inn in the Inntal. A picturesque route in this valley is the Zillertal. The charming mountains rise on the left and right, and we pass through the typical Tyrolean houses. In Gerlos, we make a stopover. It is once again time for a conscious break, during which we reflect gratefully on all the gifts in our lives.

Here in the Zillertal valley, the timber industry is present everywhere. Builders with wood and wood artists offer their products and services all around. Therefore, the piles of logs that tower before the carpentries and wood dealers are no surprise.

Upon arriving in Salzburg, we stroll along the Inn and discover an intriguing memorial. With a commemorative plaque titled: Memorial against the industrial treatment of minorities. From February 25 to 26, 1994, two youths beat the homeless Wolfgang Tschernutter with a wooden beam at the Höttinger Au swimming pool. Shortly thereafter, the homeless man died from his injuries. The memorial is meant to commemorate this horrific act. Apparently, politicians have addressed "social parasites," and one politician wanted the streets cleared of societal outsiders. On July 7, 1994, the memorial was erected in the heart of Salzburg. The city subsequently disposed of it under the cover of darkness. The initiators retrieved the memorial from waste disposal and placed it here by the Inn, where it is allowed to stand officially. The theme of "exclusion of minorities" and its societal consequences has accompanied us since the beginning of our journey.

What strikes us are the information boards for many street names. The buildings are also labeled with explanations about the owners and history. The dynasty of the House of Habsburg shaped history in Europe for centuries. The 1000 km long Via Habsburg has been a certified cultural route of the Council of Europe since 2014. The Habsburgs fought in various countries such as France, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. Time and again, we encountered Maximilian or Friedrich the Handsome on our travels. After I caught up on my sleepy history lessons in school https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schweizer_Habsburgerkriege, I am very proud of what the Swiss achieved from 1291-1474 and 1511. Thanks to the courage of our ancestors, our democracy was fought for.

Various rooftop bars invite you to admire the sunset. We choose the 360° bar because I feel particularly connected to this logo :-)

Tamara and I are enjoying this great city and staying out late into the night. We are slowly getting tired and have already walked over 20,000 steps today.

The "Sissi Palace" is also wonderfully illuminated at night. On the church entrance (image below in the middle) it says very small "= will be". Again, something to think about. Why does it say "= will be" on the church entrance? My theory on this: At the beginning of the Bible, it says that God created by a word "let there be". In the second part of the Bible, the New Testament, we find in the biography of Jesus, written by John, that this word became alive in Jesus to show us his love and forgiveness. (John 1:1-14)

Did you know that the probability that the world was created by chance is a number with over 40 zeros after the decimal point? (0.00000000000000000000000000000000000000000009) The probability is higher that a bomb explodes in a junkyard and a TV is there. That’s why evolution supporters are also believers, just like I am as a Christian who believes in a just God. ;-). It's always exciting to think about this topic.

I am pleased that there is an exhibition here on the topic of 'Stories about Social Inequalities.'

Swimming in Plansee (14.8.25)

Today it's hot, and we are going swimming in Plansee. We imagined it a bit differently. There is a long road along the lake, and all the bathers park at the side. On Instagram, it looks like the left picture, but in reality, it is like the right picture.

It is definitely enjoyable and the water is very refreshing.

In the evening we sleep in a gravel pit. There we meet an aspiring teacher. It is a joy to see the motivations with which this young man wants to invest his life in young people. We go to bed early and marvel at the fantastic starry sky.

National Holiday in Vaduz (15.8.25)

Unplanned, we are on our way to Vaduz, where today is the national holiday. Of course, we want to experience this celebration once. In these hot temperatures, we first go to the recreational facility to swim. The view of the Swiss mountains gives us great anticipation for home.

In Vaduz, there are stalls with food and drinks available, and the around 10 live bands with DJs are getting ready. We will also mingle with the locals:-)

The fireworks over the castle hill start at 10 PM. It lasts about 30 minutes. We are sitting a little outside the city and have a great view of the fireworks spectacle.

With the projected slogan 'For God, Prince, and Fatherland', the official part of the celebration ends and now the live bands start to play heavily for dancing.

Many guests from the surrounding countries park at the nearby sports field. The parking lot is overflowing with cars and campers. In the morning, we wake up at 10 am and are nearly the last ones to head home.

Arrival at Home (16.8.25)

After almost 4 months, we cross the border back into Switzerland again. We are very much looking forward to reuniting with our family and friends. It won't be long before Tamara and I become grandparents. That is a special welcome gift.

Until Christmas, we will stay here in Switzerland and are curious about where the journey will lead us in 2026.

Conclusion:

• It is a gift to have Tamara by my side, who loves me unconditionally.

• Having time to live life gratefully is something special.

• People are also in danger of filling their days while traveling to avoid thinking too much about the meaning and absurdity of life.

• Exclusion of minorities is something terrible and leads to great suffering.

• Nice and helpful people can be found everywhere.

• It feels liberating not to worry about what people think of me, but to think about what God thinks of me.