Romania - Danube Delta to Transfăgărășan

Since the beginning of the journey, we have been excited about the Romanian bears. This week we should meet some of them. First, the unique mud volcanoes and Brasov are still on our agenda.

Trip to the Mud Volcanoes in Beca (6.7.25)

During the drive out of the Danube Delta, we are once again aware of how vast this area is. The navigation system shows large lakes, while the mobile navigation shows no lakes visible anymore. Many of the water surfaces are reclaimed and irrigated with canals. This increases the agricultural productivity.

We want to have our lunch with a view of the Danube. We are not really aware that the Ukrainian border is determined by the Danube here. I haven't turned off the engine yet, and already the border police are next to us for a check.

He asks us where we are going and what we are doing here. We want to go to Brasov and have lunch here. First, he gives us a compliment on our great car and then all the papers are checked. We are allowed to have our lunch there and enjoy the view of the Danube. However, after that, we are supposed to continue driving.

On the meadow, there are snake skins and some remnants of bunkers can still be seen. We marvel at how quickly and professionally the border police are vigilant here.In the evening, we find a parking spot right by the river. As it gets dark, we still see pheasants and hear the whistling of the passing train. It has already reached 35 degrees today, and it is still hot in the evening. Only at night does it cool down again..

Unique natural phenomenon in Europe: Mud volcanoes (7.6.25)

In the morning we awaken and it gets hotter and hotter in the camper. After our breakfast ritual, it's 47 degrees inside and 39 degrees outside. Therefore, our discussion about the route for the next few days becomes a bit heated. Fiery misunderstandings chase each other. But after 5 minutes we reconnect and find a common solution.

It's only 20 minutes from our campsite to the unique mud volcanoes in Europe. We're basically alone at 10 o'clock, so I'm also flying the drone right away.

The constant eruptions come from a depth of 3000 meters. Instead of magma, methane and sand sludge mixed with salt are being ejected. It bubbles continuously and the wet sand runs down the hill. The fascinating natural spectacle captivates us. Fortunately, it has been very dry for a while, so the risk of sliding is nearly zero.

It is somewhat eerie when I think that a several meter wide crater could now open up. But I can't pull myself away and continue to observe the events.

I can't understand why we meet so few Western Europeans here. Romania is wonderful and the people are very nice.

Now we are hungry and spontaneously decide to stop at Bellavista. The view from the terrace is really beautiful and the light wind makes the 41 degrees feel about 3 degrees cooler ;). Only when we leave do we see that there was an air-conditioned area inside. We ate well for no more than 20 francs and off we go.

The continuation of our journey is fascinating and confusing at the same time. In the villages of Bascenii de Jos and Calvini, we are torn between the most expensive cars and horse-drawn carriages, or between clay houses and show houses. Some houses look like Roman palatial mansions with columns. Others have driveways with glittering columns. At the impressive gates, they love to showcase golden lions or Ferrari horses.

On the A1 we are now driving to Brasov and will spend the night near a river. Tamara has bought a nice bottle of wine because she is cooking pizza today.

We park by the river near the Suzana Monastery. The path leads down to the river and continues behind it. Spontaneously, we decide to cross the river with the car. It is, so to speak, our maiden river crossing. The first crossing ends in a dense forest, forcing us to turn around under difficult conditions in the woods. So we drive through the river a second time. Or is it more of a stream that feels like a river...? ;-)

First, we cool our feet in the river/stream and set up the camping chairs. In the area around Brasov, there are said to be bears from time to time. But we don’t grill; instead, we enjoy the homemade pizza at this idyllic spot.

After a short thunderstorm, we unpack everything again and enjoy the cool and humid evening atmosphere. Thunder and lightning rumble in the valley repeatedly. However, the rain doesn’t return. We peacefully fall asleep in a cooled camper.

Anniversary (8.7.25)

Today we have an anniversary. Exactly one year ago, our journey began. This year feels longer to me. We have experienced so many things: Germany, Poland, the Baltic States, Scandinavia, France, Spain, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Bulgaria, and Romania. On this journey, we have met 10 new countries and many exciting people.

What has this done to us?

I have learned to live in the here and now. This means that I engage spontaneously with people, my feelings, and new situations. This has led me to be more relaxed about annoying little things and to give more emotional space to the important matters.

What is different than expected?

Our camper always feels bigger and we have everything we need. I do not miss the fulfillment of performance, the meaning, and recognition in my job.My culinary imagination has been completely exceeded by Tamara's cooking skills.

What are the biggest challenges?

$It is more difficult to establish habits and rituals when we are in a new place every day.I often think about family and friends. When I haven't heard from them for a long time, I start to feel 'cut off' and wonder how they are doing.

What is the most beautiful experience?

Getting up in the morning (well-rested) when the sun rises (or later...) and the birds are awake too.Shaping the day in a way that feels right.When I think back to our blog and the unique experiences, the best part is that I got to experience everything 24/7 with Tamara.

Trip to Brasov (7.8.25)

The city of Brasov has various bastions with towers in the city wall. As in many places, the towers are named after the "guilds." The craft and trade families had the greatest interest in defending the city. Therefore, the individual "guilds" fought in the towers named after them. In Brasov, we park by the White Tower and explore the city..

The view of the old town from the fortress tower is excellent. The old town is full of tourists from all over the world. Brașov is a hub for various beautiful places in Romania. So we stroll through the streets at 34 degrees and admire the beautiful buildings (and sweat...).

The square around the church and the town hall is very impressive. Here, the prices of the shops and restaurants are adjusted to the purchasing power of tourists. We stop in an alley parallel to the main street and eat dorada with broccoli and asparagus. A light breeze helps us to enjoy the shade in the alley. For dessert, we let ourselves be recommended something local and are delighted.

A brightly painted passage leads into the courtyard of the old church on the left to the main square.

In Brașov, there is also the narrowest street in Europe. I don't understand why this is called a street and not an alley.

Castle Dracula

Bran Castle - also known as Castle Dracula. Some also call it Törzburg. We find a parking lot to spend the night with a direct view of the castle. The castle is described in the novel by Bram Stoker about Count Dracula. It is said that the Impaler lived nearby. He dealt with his enemies accordingly.We try to find a viewpoint on the nearby hill. The ascent is several hundred meters in altitude, and every viewpoint is overgrown with trees. Only later do we see that there is a white cross on a rock to the right of the castle. That would have been the great view. So I'll just fly the drone to admire the castle from above.

A severe thunderstorm is approaching. It flashes and thunders. Shortly after, 3 fire trucks pass by on the road next to our sleeping place. A lightning strike has occurred. Not at the castle, because we would have seen that from our car.

The street reminds us of Alesund (Norway). Back then, we also parked next to the street and didn't get a wink of sleep. Here, too, the 40-ton trucks race around the corner. The eerily majestic castle, the ominously sounding 40-ton trucks, and now we realize that the rainwater is flowing directly into our camper (thanks to the fallen tree...). The brake lights in the ceiling have a crack, and the water is flowing directly in there. The duct tape is in the trunk, and I'm already in my pajamas. That doesn't feel right.I put on my rain gear and wade through the mud to get the duct tape. Afterwards, I try to seal the biggest holes in the roof hatch with plastic and duct tape. Inside, Tamara is catching the streams with containers. The rain is so heavy that we can no longer see out of the windows. The largest waterfalls have been tamed, and towels catch the 'last' drops. The night will be extremely short because I can only sleep with one eye closed.

Bears and the Rosenburg-Rosnov (9.7.25)

First, we visit a bear rescue station that offers a new home to 120 bears. There is an English guided tour at 9:30. The bears have spent between 10-20 years in cages at gas stations, bars, and restaurants, and were in poor condition. Other bears were left behind in bankrupt zoos and nearly starved. Circus bears, orphans, and wild bears that were too 'human-friendly' have also gotten a second chance here. The forest area is huge, and the bears live together. During feeding, we see that the hierarchy must be observed here as well. The strongest bear eats first and drives away the others with loud roaring..

Upon arriving at Rosenburg, the next storm hits. Here, too, the water runs heavily down the door seals. I have to turn the car so that the water drains better. We survive this storm almost dry. I try once more to improve my makeshift solution and seal it a bit better. The panic solution from Bran definitely still has some room for improvement...

Now we want to buy tickets for the castle tour, and they say that it is closed due to renovation work. Our bad weather alternative has fallen through. We will only get to know one of the famous fortress churches in Transylvania from a distance. Therefore, I will fly the drone from the parking lot to the nearby hill.

The weather clears up briefly and we walk to the castle entrance. This is the only place we are allowed to visit. The view of the steaming forests and the atmosphere around the castle are both mystical and soothing.

After the drinking water is replenished, we leave the parking lot of Rosenau. I want to drive over the smooth ground and after 10 meters, I realize that something is wrong. The smooth ground turns out to be mud and we are already buried up to the rims. We quickly switch to 4x4 and engage the differential lock. This way, I reverse through the deep rut back onto the rocky ground. We are becoming less and less nervous when it comes to sand and mud. Let's see when we will have to put the sand plates under the wheels for the first time.

After we have replenished the pantry at the nearby supermarket, we drive towards Holbav. It is only 30 minutes away and we are curious about what has become of the parish community. In the 1990s, we supported the Christian parish in Holbav by purchasing a tractor for them as www.egazh.ch. Later, we provided a combine harvester and, with additional support, school and medical equipment. Holbav recently celebrated its 550th anniversary since its first historical mention. Possibly, the road was renewed about 2 years ago up to the village entrance for this reason. Most houses did not have an electricity connection until 10 years ago and had to fetch fresh water from the village well.

Holbav (10.7.25)Today we slept for 12 hours at the edge of the forest before Holbav, had breakfast, and took a shower. That's why it's already afternoon by the time we set out to spontaneously look for the village and the pastor couple, and hopefully find them too. At 4 PM we stand in front of the house and knock on the door. It's a pity that no one is at home. So we want to write a card and send greetings from Switzerland. At that moment, someone arrives by car and parks in front of the house, the pastor's brother :-). Shortly after, we convey the greetings from our friend from Switzerland. The warm response is overwhelming. Immediately, coffee and cake are served, and we feel at home. After about an hour, we have exchanged a lot of information and talked about mutual acquaintances and past experiences (thanks to Google Translate).

The church service starts at 7 PM and you are urgently invited to be there, as our visit would encourage everyone a lot, according to the pastor. Before that, we will visit the oldest lady in the village. She lives across from the church and will turn 100 this year. Tamara and I now have a new goal - 100 is the new 80 ;-). According to the 'blue zones' where many people over 100 live, healthy eating, movement, community, hope for life after death/purpose (for us the faith in Jesus) is said to be very beneficial for longevity :-).

In the church service, I am allowed to say something and it is translated directly by a young woman who speaks English. The sermon fits very well and it is about Psalm 36. After the service, we are invited by other people to stay overnight with them in the camper - really very hospitable, after all we are strangers... The story of a young woman is moving, who received gifts from Switzerland as a small child and remembers the first chocolate from Switzerland. A 'Täfeli' of chocolate was not eaten but kept in the mouth until the chocolate and the taste had faded away; they did not have sweets in the 90s or hardly any, and that was a great gift/experience for them. We are still exchanging thoughts on how grateful people can be who have little, and how taken for granted it is for the young ones who have not experienced the "lean times" to have so much. The hospitality of these people is overwhelming. Additional guests are invited for dinner, and we spend a warm and funny evening being spoiled with Romanian delicacies. Of course, we "have to" stay overnight in the house; the guest room is prepared for us, and the camper is parked in front of the house :-).

Farewell in Holbav and fortified churches in Transylvania (11.7.25)

After a restful night, we shower extensively and are thrilled about the breakfast buffet. Tamara and I love having breakfast and truly enjoy being together with the lovely people. The friendly people in this church community will remain in our hearts as a memory.

In Transylvania, specifically in Siebenbürgen, there are over 100 fortified churches. Hungary offered German families land if they built forts and defended the land against incursions from the East. This led to the establishment of several hundred villages with churches that over the years were further developed into fortified churches. Therefore, almost everything here is also written in German. On the drive from Holbav to the fortified church of Prejmer, Tamara and I are still processing the impressions from our visit in Holbav.The Saxon fortified church of Prejmer (Tartau) is a special fortification site. Tartlau has the strongest ring wall among the Saxon fortified churches in Transylvania. The fortification has almost a kilometer perimeter, and the wall is 5 meters thick. The entrance tunnel is heavily fortified and about 30 meters long.

Surrounding it are honeycomb-shaped 270 apartments and storage rooms attached to the fortification wall. Below are storage rooms and from each apartment a direct access to the circular, 800-meter long and 10-meter high defense area with firing slits and the pitch noses. The first machine gun, the so-called death organ, is also integrated into the wall.In the center stands the Protestant church built in the shape of a Greek cross. The first church dates back to 1218 and is built in the typical Cistercian Gothic style. It was only expanded in 1421 after the first invasion of the Turks.

In tense times, the school was already conducted within the walls in the 14th century.

The journey continues to the next church monastery, Deutsch Weisskirch. By then, we are already running late, and Tamara finds another quiet sleeping spot in the middle of nowhere.

After dinner, we are visited by 3 stray dogs and a herd of sheep. The fog is also rising over the meadows in the dusk. It looks somewhat eerie. Tonight we will surely sleep peacefully.

Sighisoara (Schässburg) (12.7.25)

Early in the morning, the bells of the sheep herds wake us. Like a white avalanche, they roll up the hill, following the voice of the shepherd.

The path takes us over the fortified church of Deutsch-Weisskirch. The Saxon-influenced village structure can be seen throughout Transylvania. Long straight streets, where the main houses are built at right angles with connecting walls to the neighbors. The stables and warehouses run parallel to the street. This is particularly evident here in the photo.

On some houses, life wisdoms are inscribed, such as: "Let us hold on to the old as long as it is good. But let us work new things on the old ground every hour." In the museum of the church fortress, it is described how this place was organized. There was the church and so-called neighborhood units, where every 2 years someone else took responsibility for the tasks to be distributed. At the handover after two years, there was an assessment of whether the job had been done properly. All costs and tasks were recorded very precisely during the term of office. The church fortress is compactly built and offers protection to only a few families.

Here in the museum, I also notice that people back then often reminded themselves of life wisdoms on walls, ceilings, and tiles in their daily lives.The many pieces of wisdom give me pause to think in view of the prevailing individualism and selfishness."Every pain can be overcome, every deep wound heals. You only need to find a soul that shares all your pains.""Whoever wants to live in peace must remain silent and endure much."

The Protestant church has a white organ and ancient benches. Only from the church can we access the main defense tower through a narrow spiral staircase. From there, the view is fantastic..

Also exciting are the various museums with tools, cooking utensils, and spinning wheels. Bags and rough clothing were made from hemp. Finer clothing from flax. The method was quite similar. Back then, there were no matchmaking platforms. The girls simply dropped their spindles when their favorite boy walked by. If he picked them up, a kiss was the reward.

Das Dorf ist malerisch und ein Spaziergang lohnt sich. Die Lieblingsfarben der Häuser ist Blau in den verschiedensten Tönen.

Kurz vor der Weiterreise fliege ich noch "schnell" mit der Drohne. Und prompt bleibt sie beim Landen in einer Baumkrone auf ca. 4-5 Meter Höhe hängen. Unter dem Baum Büsche und Dickicht. Es ist unmöglich rauf zu klettern und eine Säge habe ich nicht dabei. Ich finde einen Stock und zerbreche ihn in 40 cm Stücke, um nach der Drohne zu werfen. Wie durch ein Wunder treffe ich die Drohne beim 4. Stockwurf und sie landet weich und wohlbehalten auf den Büschen. Gott sei Dank!

In Sighisoara (Schässburg) parken wir zentral und besuchen die Altstadt. Das Städtchen ist abwechslungsreich und spannend um einen Hügel gebaut. Imposant dabei ist das Stadttor mit dem schönen Dach und dem speziellen Uhrwerk.

Der Vater der "Pfählers" Vlad Dracul hat hier mitten in der Stadt im orangen Haus gewohnt

Vom Dorf führen 176 Stufen mit einer Überdachung bis zum Gymnasium. Das ist schon eine Wertschätzung für die Schüler, wenn der Schulweg so aufwändig und komfortabel gestaltet ist. Vielleicht hat das zwischen 1445-1522 zusätzlich zu guten Leistungen geführt, weil in diesem Zeitraum mindestens 95 Studenten an die Universität in Wien gegangen sind.

Auf der Weiterfahrt finden wir in jedem Dorf eine Kirchenburg und die aneinander gereihten Häuser mit Mauern dazwischen. Was auffällt ist, dass die sächsischen Familien betreffend Baustil nicht miteinander Erfahrungen ausgetauscht haben. In jeder Burg hat sich jemand verwirklicht.

Wir können jedoch nicht alle besuchen und wollen heute noch die Transfăgărășan Strasse erreichen, weil morgen früh das Wetter schön sein soll.

Tamara hat wieder einen tollen Platz am Fluss Olt gefunden. Wir parken etwas abseits der vielen Weekend Fischer. Die Aussicht auf den Fluss ist in den Abendstunden einfach grossartig.

Transfăgărășan (13.7.25)

Der Morgen ist früh um 5.20 Uhr und wir wachen vor dem Sonnenaufgang auf. Die besondere Stimmung mit dem Nebel geht etwas an uns vorbei, weil es einfach zu früh ist.

Bereits um 7 Uhr sind wir auf der rund 100 km langen Bergstrasse durch die Transsilvanischen "Alpen" Rumäniens, den Karpaten. Wir sind sozusagen die Ersten, die sich auf den Weg machen. Ich fahre langsam den Berg hoch und erwarte nach jeder Kurve einen Braunbären, wir haben gehört, es soll manchmal welche gesichtet worden sein. Über der Baumgrenze angekommen schwindet die Hoffnung auf einen Bären. Dafür ist die Sicht auf 2042 Meter über Meer einmalig. Die geschlängelte Strasse ist gut ausgebaut und dank meinem Fahrstil geht es auch Tamara ausgezeichnet.

Am Vidraru See angekommen fasziniert uns das Panorama so sehr, dass wir beinahe die Bären vergessen haben. Es hat aber immer wieder Schilder, mit der Aufforderung Bären nicht zu füttern. Es muss also.. welche haben.

Bekanntlich stirbt die Hoffnung zuletzt und wir sehen einen kleinen dunkeln Bären im Gras neben der Strasse sein Frühstück geniessen. Er knabbert friedlich an den Blümchen und wir sind hin und weg. Es kommt uns in den Sinn, dass 80% der Bären Vegetarier sind. Oder waren es 80% vegetarische Nahrung und 20% Fleisch. Hmmm, wir bleiben natürlich im Auto und schauen dem kleinen Kerl eine Weile zu - bei geschlossenem Fenster...

Ein älterer Bär kommt soeben aus dem Wald und schaut über die Planken. Weiter unten sitzt ein ausgewachsener Braunbär und wartet wohl auf einen Snack, den er von den Menschen erwartet. Scheinbar wurde eine italienische Töfffahrerin von einem Bären letzten Monat angegriffen und in den Wald gezerrt. Bären haben Menschen nicht gern und halten sich normalerweise eher fern von ihnen, darum ist füttern nicht gut, sie gewöhnen sich zu sehr an den Menschen - das haben wir alles von unserem Besuch beim "Bärenauffanglager" erklärt bekommen.

Tamara und ich sind sehr glücklich und werden den "kleinen" an den Blumen knabbernden Bären nicht so schnell vergessen. Auf dem Rückweg nehmen wir die E81 nach Sibiu. Heute ist in einigen Ländern Ferienanfang. Darum ist die Strasse Richtung Süden komplett verstopft. Deutsche, Holländer, Polen und Belgier sind häufig unterwegs.

Tamara hat recherchiert und einen 6er Campingplatz in der Kirchenburg Hammersdorf gefunden. Das heisst, dass wir mitten in einer Kirchenburg sicher schlafen dürfen.

Am Montag planen wir unserer restliche Strecke für die nächsten 4 Wochen. Mal schauen, wo es uns hintreibt. Schön, dass du als Leser/in mit uns auf der Reise dabei bist.